Baron Bigod is the creation of Jonny Crickmore at Fen Farm Dairy in Suffolk. Made in small batches to a Brie de Meaux recipe passed on by a French cheesemaker, it is the only traditional Brie-style cheese currently being produced in the UK. In fact, it is arguably more authentic than the majority of French Brie in that it’s made on a farm as opposed to a creamery, using the very freshest of milk from Jonny’s own herd of Montbéliarde cows and a few Jerseys whose high butterfat milk enrich the collection. The curds are hand ladled into moulds using traditional pelle-à-brie ladles, and the young cheeses are salted, wrapped in paper and aged for up to eight weeks in cave-like conditions, first at Fen Farm, then at Neal’s Yard Dairy’s Bermondsey arches. As the milk changes seasonally, so too will the flavour of cheese, from buttery sauteed mushrooms to more brassica notes of roast cauliflower with hints of garlic.